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Photo Identification at Sea: A Step-by-Step Guide

Updated: Sep 2


1) First: Spotting whales safely

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  • Scan for blows: Tall, bushy blows for humpbacks/right whales; low, angled blow for sperm whales; very tall blow for blue whales; diffuse blow for fin/Bryde’s/minke.

  • Look for cues: Back breaking the surface, tail-stock arch before a dive, birds circling/feeding, slick patches, or the “footprint” left on calm water.

  • Sea state: If you can choose, aim for Beaufort ≤ 3; calmer seas make ID photos far easier.


2) The correct approach (ethics + safety)

  • Keep your distance. Local rules vary—never closer than 100 m (often 200–300 m for large whales; more for mothers with calves).

  • Match direction, not angle. Travel parallel at slow speed; never cut across their path or approach from the front/behind.

  • Slow, steady, silent. Reduce speed well in advance; avoid sudden gear shifts. If the whale surfaces nearby, go to neutral and let it pass.

  • Limit time. ~30 minutes per group; one vessel at a time near the animals.

  • Never get in the water with whales; never use drones without permits.

  • Obey local laws (Pelagos Sanctuary/ACCOBAMS guidelines, national regulations).


3) What to photograph (by species)

General rule: take a series of sharp images from both sides when possible (left & right), plus the tail fluke if shown. Include a few context shots (boat/waves/landmarks) to help confirm location and group size.

Focus on the fluke (tail)

  • Humpback: Underside of the tail fluke (pigmentation pattern, scars, trailing-edge notches), plus left/right dorsal fin.

  • Sperm whale: Tail fluke underside (nicks/notches), plus head profile and any body scars.

  • Blue whale: They sometimes fluke; if they do, capture the fluke. Also collect high-quality shots of mottled back, tiny dorsal fin shape and position, and blowhole area for pigmentation.

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Focus on the back/head callosities

  • Right whales (North Atlantic/North Pacific): Callosity patterns on the head (rostrum, bonnet, lip corners), both sides; also V-shaped blow and broad back without a dorsal fin.


Focus on the dorsal fin

  • Fin whale, Bryde’s whale, minke whale: Left and right dorsal fin (shape, nicks), chevron/pigmentation (fin whale), and any unique scars or rake marks.

  • Killer whale (orca): Dorsal fin (height, shape, nicks) and saddle patch (gray patch behind the fin), both sides; also eye patch shape/size. (Flukes are seldom useful for ID in orcas.)

  • Dolphins (Beaked whales, pilot whales, Risso's, harbour purpoises and so).

    Pilot whales during the Atlantic crossing of the Glacialis Expedition
    Pilot whales during the Atlantic crossing of the Glacialis Expedition

If the whale doesn’t show a fluke

  • Prioritize dorsal fin left/right, back/mottling, unique scars, and head features; shoot in bursts as animals surface.


4) Camera setup (phone & camera)

For cameras (DSLR/mirrorless):

  • Mode: Shutter priority (S/Tv) or Manual.

  • Shutter: 1/1000–1/2000 s (faster for breaches).

  • Aperture: f/5.6–f/8.

  • ISO: Auto with max ~3200 (adjust to conditions).

  • Focus: Continuous AF (AI-Servo/AF-C); zone or single point on dorsal/fluke edge.

  • Drive: High-speed burst.

  • Lens: 70–200 mm or 100–400 mm; image stabilization ON.

  • File: RAW+JPEG if possible.

For smartphones:

  • Hold landscape, brace elbows, use burst mode.

  • Avoid excessive digital zoom;  can help if quality stays sharp.

  • Tap to focus on fin/fluke edge; raise exposure slightly if backlit.


5) The “ID essentials” to capture

  • Left & right sides (dorsal fin/saddle)

  • Tail fluke underside (if shown)

  • Head/callosities (right whales), head profile (sperm whales)

  • Back/mottling (blue, gray)

  • Any scars/unique marks (propeller scars, rake marks)


6) Notes to record right away (write or dictate)

  • Date & exact time (UTC)

  • GPS coordinates (boat device/phone)

  • Number of individuals, age classes (adult/juvenile/calf)

  • Behavior (traveling, feeding, logging, breaching)

  • Direction of travel and sea state

  • Your platform (zodiac/sailboat/shore), distance estimate

  • Photos/videos taken (which device/zoom)

Tip: don’t crop before submitting—full-frame images preserve scale and metadata.

7) Where to submit your photos (programs)

  • Happywhale — global platform for many species (flukes and dorsals). Accepts GPS/date and returns matches when possible.

  • Flukebook — research-oriented photo-ID database (supports multiple species/marks; used by scientists and NGOs).

  • Regional catalogues — e.g., GREC (French Mediterranean) and Tethys/CSR (Pelagos Sanctuary) for Mediterranean whales. If you photographed whales in the Med, consider submitting to both a global platform and the relevant regional catalogue.


8) File prep & metadata

  • Keep originals (retain EXIF: date/time, GPS if embedded).

  • Name files meaningfully (e.g., 2025-07-18_Italy-Pelagos_SpermWhale_Grp3_IMG1234.jpg).

  • Provide a sighting form: date/time UTC, GPS, species (if known), # individuals, calves? behavior, platform, your contact details.


9) Quality checklist (what makes a great ID photo)

  • Sharp (focus on trailing edge of fluke or fin).

  • Well-lit (avoid heavy shadow/glare; adjust exposure).

  • Orthogonal (fluke/fin as straight-on as possible).

  • Multiple frames across the surfacing sequence.

  • Context shots for verification.


10) Golden ethics (for whales first)

  • If animals change course, speed up, or dive early, you’re too close—back off.

  • Mothers & calves: double the distance; minimize time.

  • One group = one vessel nearby whenever possible.

  • No feeding, no touching, no swimming, no drones without permits.

  • Follow local laws—they may set stricter distances or speed limits.


To Resume:

Quick Species Cheat-Sheet

  • Humpback: Fluke underside (primary), dorsal fin; also lateral body scars.

  • Sperm whale: Fluke underside (primary), head profile; body scars.

  • Blue: Back mottling + tiny dorsal fin (primary); fluke if shown.

  • Right whales: Head callosities (primary), both sides; no dorsal fin; V-shaped blow.

  • Fin/Bryde’s/Minke: Dorsal fin left/right (primary), chevrons/pigmentation (fin), any scars.

  • Killer whale (orca): Dorsal fin + saddle patch (primary), eye patch; both sides.

  • Dolphins : Dorsal fin

  • Belugas : Back both side


One-Page Field Card (print or save)

  1. Spot: Blow → back → fin/fluke.

  2. Approach: Parallel, slow, ≥100–300 m, neutral if close, limit time.

  3. Shoot: Burst mode, 1/1000–1/2000 s, AF-C, fluke/dorsal/head per species.

  4. Record: Date/time (UTC), GPS, # individuals (calves?), behavior, direction, sea state.

  5. Submit: Happywhale, Flukebook + regional catalogue (e.g., GREC/Tethys for Med).

  6. Respect: If the whale reacts, back off.


Conclusion

Every photo taken at sea is more than just a memory: it is a piece of a vast scientific puzzle. Thanks to your images and platforms like Happywhale or Flukebook, researchers can track populations, identify threats, and better protect the giants of the oceans. Observe, photograph, share: three simple actions to become a guardian of whales yourself.

Hope this article was helpful! don't hesitate to share your insight about Photo ID.

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